in West Pokot, Kenya

"Poisho." "Karaam nyoman."
That is a greeting in Pokot language.

My name is Mayuko Shigeta,
studying gender and social sciences, at master course of the university in Japan.
I've been to Kenya in this August, for my pre-research about culture and women's organization in the West Pokot.

I had stayed with the community based organization (CBO) in Kapenguria,West Pokot.
Now, I would like to write about small things I found in my short stay in the West Pokot.

※ All people names are fictitious.

□■ Brief Introduction to the West Pokot ■□
West Pokot, is in the North Eastern part of Kenya.
We can see a border to Uganda here. It takes 10 hours from Nairobi to Kapenguria (a town in West Pokot) by bus.
People who live here (tribe) are named Pokots, most Pokot people are breeding cattle.
Population of Pokots is said more than 220 thousands.
We can also find the traditional decoration which is similar to Masaai,
using colorful, beautiful beads and shells.

Above all, it is very peaceful and quiet.
“It is very safe here. They sometimes steal cattle, but they don’t steel money.” Chairperson of the CBO (Community Based Organization) said.
There are a lot of cows, goats, cocks, donkeys and sheep everywhere.
Little boys and old men (Msee) are lead the cattle.
Girls are selling vegetables and washing cloths.

■□ My friends in Pokot □■
In Nairobi, I was waiting at my hostel for a CBO staff, Chelimo,
she said she would come to Nairobi at 8:00 a.m. but It became 11:00 am.
I called Lily, a chairperson of that group waiting at the West Pokot, then she said,
“Hi. She will come to Nairobi at 8:00 tomorrow.”
… I felt I came back to Kenya.
but maybe I had special "Kenyan time" in the West Pokot. My pokot friends often said "pole pole (slowly, slowly)" to me, and just make sure, me too,
I like it better than Nairobi.

The next day, Chelimo came to Nairobi at 10:00am. We left Nairobi in the evening, and arrived at Kapenguria at the next morning.
She spent 20 hours in a bus to come and go back for me, a foreign, strange student.

“Karibu (Welcome).” Ms. Lily said and took me in her arms.
She resigned a local government, and now she works at the CBO, advocate campaign about traditional practices, dealing with HIV/AIDS and fistula clinic etc.
It’s a very small organization, and started by seven Pokot women, investing 200Ksh (about 330yen) each other.
It was really impressive to see their attitudes for the activities even in difficulties of money and some cultural things.

I was under the care of Ms. Lily, and many Pokot friends at Kapenguria.
“Here is your second home. Don’t mind anything. Just feel like at home.”
Lily said.
One day, Ann, one of the CBO staffs, treated a cock and chapati for me.
It got late and I said, “I am going back to (Lilian’s) home now.” Ann told me, “Why?? Stay here and sleep with us. You don’t worry anything! We are “family” right?”
We, three women (Ann, Cherimo and me), slept together in one bed that night.
We slept very well.
Here, I had many experiences like that.

We couldn’t suppress laughing when we were together.
One day, I had to send an important mail to Japan, and went to a cyber space in the post office. There are three computers, but two are under construction, and I couldn’t open the web page of the rest one.
Ann was looking at me, laughed and said, “Mayuko. Here, is Kenya. Ha, ha, ha---!!!”
I was swept up to her way to laugh.

“You should enjoy now, before you die”
Ann told me.


□■“Color” in Pokot ■□
Colors, in the west pokot are verrry beautiful.
You can see a lot of Kangas (African shawls), which are of many beautiful vivid colors,
at the street markets in Kapenguria.
Pokot Women tie their babies with those Pokot’s Kanga.
Sometimes 6-7 aged girls tie their brother or sister with this kanga.

As we talk about color in Pokot, I have to note the scenery on Sunday.
When you go to church, you will see Pokot women and girls in colorful dresses;
for example, women wear colorful dresses and sometimes ribbon of same color such as purple, orange and green. I saw a girl putting on white dress like the wedding ceremony.
Their appearances are really beautiful.
In fact, everyday, I was looking forward to meeting Lily,
because she also likes colorful cloths.

□■Different Life from Nairobi ■□
At Nairobi, I have stayed at the youth hostel in a plot of the University of Nairobi.
B&B was 900ksh (around 1200yen) per day there, with flush toilet, when I turn a faucet,
hot water shower came out vigorously.
In Kapenguria, I had experienced much different life from that hostel in Nairobi,
and it was really precious experience for me.

First, I had to think about an importance and value of water.
Most Pokot people use water from the river.
Both boys and girls carry large tanks of water. My friend boiled a bowl of water for me
to take a bath. Before each meal, we usually wash our hands pouring water from a pot above a bowl.
My friend says, water is one of the problems in Pokot.
Now is the better season because of raining. In December and January, water problem is serious.

I couldn’t help but rethink about much easier and wasteful my life in Japan.
At the same time, after coming back to Nairobi, it was the fact that I felt “comfortable” using the "vigorous" shower.

Simultaneously, life in Pokot is very beautiful.
Air is clean, and in the sky, there are a lot of stars. But in summer (from November to February), you will be able to see more stars, my friend told me.

There is no use to buy foods because they grow up them in their own farm.
“We buy only rice and flour.” Ms. Lily says.
Actually, there are maize, beans, fruits such as orange, pineapple, banana, and cows,
pigs and goats in farm. Also, one day Lily bought for me a very big tilapia. “I know Japanese like fish.” Every meal in Pokot was warm, very delicious, and hearty. I felt happiness.

However, it is also the fact that WFP is coming to inner Pokot for supporting food in this season, because it is winter, and there is shortage of food now.
“Life is very difficult here, but if someone feel suffer, we give directly. We help each other.” Lily said. “We still have a good culture.”


“Mayuko, you shall come back soon. We are waiting.”
My Pokot friends saw me off, and we say bye at the Eldoret.

I thank Ms. Lily and many friends, "family" in Pokot.
(They called me a member of "family".
Now I have "dad","mom", "sisiter" and "brother" in the West Pokot.)

What can I give back to them??
That is a question for myself.
Now, I am thinking this.

Just one thing I know is, that I will come back there soon.

Mayuko Shigeta (JAYN Tokyo)
Ochanomizu University